The hot sunshine was allowed in the kitchen just enough to give it a bright, cheery feel, without letting in the sharp heat that pounded into the Transylvanian countryside. My home in South Dakota had experienced an extra long winter, and so the coolness of the house was a welcome relief after my walk around the village, which was hot even for the locals.
A kitchen in Transylvania has a unique smell, especially Elizabeth’s kitchen. She is in her eighties, and so her kitchen has had a long time to accumulate the homey smells of coal and wood fires, pig lard, wine, garlic, muddy shoes, dill, and the usual mold that creeps into older homes. Today the smells of pastry dough and raw eggs were added to the mix, along with the wonderful feeling of excitement. Elizabeth’s grandson was coming home for the weekend. She carefully kneaded the pastry dough to just the right consistency while her forty-five year old daughter, Magda, mixed a chocolate syrup to add to part of the dough.
I stood in a corner and watched the two ladies expertly whisk together the scrumptious concoction, trying to stay out of their way. They encouraged me in their soft Hungarian voices to take the seat, but I had a better view standing. I always felt tall amongst them. At five feet six inches, I am the shortest in my family of tall Germanic Americans, of whom the shortest after me is five feet ten inches. Elizabeth was maybe five feet at the most, and Magda couldn’t have been more than five two.
Elizabeth asked in her whispering, aged voice something about the consistency of the dough and Magda answered equally as quietly. Their calm demeanor belied the excitement and nervousness that crackled in the air.
Soon Marta, Elizabeth’s elder daughter, came visiting and brought her daughter-in-law and granddaughter. I was shooed out of the kitchen to go eat lunch with the younger generation while the three older women continued cooking. Rahela and I made some small conversation in Romanian about the grandson who would be returning soon while Sanda babbled in two-year-old delight and tried to fling our lunch around the room. Apparently the little girl found extreme delight in the mysterious substance of sour cream, and kept trying to mix her lunch into the main container with her small plastic spoon. She screamed with frustration when Rahela absent mindedly moved her hands away and relocated the container to a safer and unreachable spot on the table.
After the meal Sanda was taken to the bedroom for a nap and I returned to Elizabeth’s kitchen. Magda had yielded the cooking surface to Marta, who was rolling out a delicate dough and was sprinkling some kind of sweet cheese, nuts, sugar and unsweetened cocoa onto the surface before rolling it up into a kind of jelly role type pastry. I inched closer to the table when no one was looking and snatched a quick taste of the dough. Mmm, it was delicious!
Soon the smells of the baking pastry floated around the room and I was offered a sample of the finished product. I rolled my eyes in mock ecstasy and licked my lips, earning a satisfied chuckle from the chefs.
“Meshaysh feenom.” I said, raising my piece of pastry. The best translation I can give you of the Hungarian compliment is, “Excellent worthy of the legend.” A bit melodramatic perhaps, for a mere country kitchen’s pastry. But first off, you must understand that Hungarian is a poetic, melodramatic language. And second, Elizabeth and her daughters are just very good cooks. Worthy of legend.